Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets: Classic and Contemporary
December 2001, Wiley-Blackwell
The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.
1. The evolution of the woman's tailored jacket.
2. Fabrics, measurement and tools.
Part One: Classic Bespoke Cutting.
3. The bespoke jacket.
Part Two: Engineered Cutting and Manufacture.
4. The engineered jacket.
5. The engineered process of manufacture.
Part Three: 'Style' Cutting Variations.
6. Style Cutting - Block Variations.
7. Body shaping variations.
8. Collar variations.
9. Sleeve variations.
* demonstrates the difference between cutting for 'bespoke' tailoring and 'engineered' tailoring
* shows how to achieve complex cuts within the constraints of today's technical environment
* provides old and new techniques for design detail and discusses the opportunities (and problems) of new fabrics