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Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets: Classic and Contemporary

Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets: Classic and Contemporary

Winifred Aldrich

ISBN: 978-0-632-05467-1

Dec 2001

120 pages

Select type: Hardcover

In Stock



The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.

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1. The evolution of the woman's tailored jacket.

2. Fabrics, measurement and tools.

Part One: Classic Bespoke Cutting.

3. The bespoke jacket.

Part Two: Engineered Cutting and Manufacture.

4. The engineered jacket.

5. The engineered process of manufacture.

Part Three: 'Style' Cutting Variations.

6. Style Cutting - Block Variations.

7. Body shaping variations.

8. Collar variations.

9. Sleeve variations.


* Winifred Aldrich applies the successful approach of her previous best selling textbooks to reviving the art of women's tailoring - a part of the fashion scene where standards of cut and style have deteriorated as a result of new technology
* demonstrates the difference between cutting for 'bespoke' tailoring and 'engineered' tailoring
* shows how to achieve complex cuts within the constraints of today's technical environment
* provides old and new techniques for design detail and discusses the opportunities (and problems) of new fabrics